The Knitting Architect
Constants
Before we start with the basics of charting, it is important to list what we will refer to as constants. These constants can be changed, in spite of their name, whenever your judgment calls for it. They are to serve as a general base from which to start. Remember these are not absolute.
The first constant we will consider is the underarm constant.
| Chest size | Constant |
|---|---|
| Child, 20-23 | 5.5 in |
| Child, 24-27 | 6 in |
| Child, 28-31 | 6.5 in |
| Woman, 32-35 | 7 in |
| Woman, 36-39 | 7.5 in |
| Woman, 40-43 | 8 in |
| Woman, 44-47 | 9 in |
| Woman, 48+ | 9.5 in |
| Man, 32-35 | 8 in |
| Man, 36-39 | 9 in |
| Man, 40-43 | 9.5 in |
| Man, 44-47 | 10 in |
| Man, 48+ | 10.5 in |
When making larger and heavier garments that are to be worn over other clothes, all the measurements one works with must be increased to allow for the added bulk. This applies to the underarm constants. They must be increased as follows:
| Chest size | Increase |
|---|---|
| All children's | Add 1/2 inch to underarm constant |
| Woman, 32-39 | Add 1 inch |
| Woman, 40-47 | Add 1.25 inches |
| Woman, 48+ | Add 1.5 inches |
| Man, 32-39 | Add 1 inch |
| Man, 40-47 | Add 1.5 inches |
| Man, 48+ | Add 2 inches |
When making a larger and heavier garment such as a coat, the actual chest measurements should be increased as follows:
| Chest size | Increase |
|---|---|
| All children's | add 3 inches |
| Adult, 32-39 | add 4 inches |
| Adult, 40-47 | add 5 inches |
| Adult, 48+ | add 6 inches |
The next constant is for the back of neck. This constant does not need to vary from females to males. We will be working at this time with relatively small numbers and the differences that could exist between the male and female back of neck constants would be so small that they will be compensated for in the finishing. We can always rib an extra quarter inch of ribbing around the neck to make it fit properly or vice versa. This is where a little judgment comes in. Work up the whole sweater first. Then decide how much ribbing will be needed. This is called playing it safe — and that's fine. Please remember that in the finishing you will generally rib around the neck for 3/4 inch or more. This takes off 1 1/2 inches from the back of neck measurement. For this reason, do not be alarmed if these new constants seem excessive.
Back of Neck Constants
| Chest size | Constant |
|---|---|
| 20 - 23 | 4 1/2 inches |
| 24 - 27 | 5 inches |
| 28 - 31 | 5 1/2 inches |
| 32 - 35 | 6 inches |
| 36 - 39 | 6 1/2 inches |
| 40 - 43 | 7 inches |
| 44 - 47 | 7 1/2 inches |
| 48 - 52 | 8 inches |
| 52+ | 8 1/2 inches |
When it comes to constants, you must use judgment if variation is called for. These constants can be changed to suit the individual's specific needs. For example, the armhole constant for a female with a 38 inch chest is 7 1/2 inches, but depending on your knowledge of the yarn and its qualities or style, or the unusually heavy arm of the person, you may decide to change the 7 1/2 inch armhole to 8 inches or even 8 1/2 inches. The opposite could also be true if the arm were very skinny; you could reduce the underarm constant to 7 inches or even less.
Even though these constants cover us in 98 percent of all cases without alterations, we are not limited exclusively to them. The constants provide us with a base from which to work. There are other constants which will be established later. And as you become more expert, you will establish some of your own constants. At this time, they are a good place to start.