The Knitting Architect
Stitch & Row Gauges
Now that we are done with sweater measurements, we need to know the size of the bricks (stitches) to be used. Since we are working on a much smaller scale than a building, and since the stitches are much smaller than bricks, we do not measure each stitch individually, but rather we work with the inch as a unit and we figure how many stitches it takes to fill that inch. What we refer to here is called the stitch gauge.
The stitch gauge is based on the thickness of the yarn. The thicker the yarn, the larger the gauge. The inverse is also true. A large gauge for a very bulky yarn may be 2 stitches per inch while a small gauge for a very thin yarn may be 9 stitches per inch. Please notice a large gauge implies small numbers (2 in this case) while a small gauge implies larger numbers (9 in this case).
The stitch gauge refers only to the horizontal measure of the stitch. We must also know the vertical measure of the stitch (the thickness of the brick). This vertical measure is called the row gauge.
Just as the stitch gauge is based on the thickness of the yarn, so is the row gauge. And again, since the thickness of each row is quite small, we work with the inch as a unit and determine the number of rows within the inch.
To obtain an accurate pair of gauges there are several prerequisites:
- The person who is to knit the sweater must work up a sample square with the yarn and needles to be used. Since everyone knits differently, it is imperative to obtain this sample from the knitter.
- This sample square must be made in the very stitch to be used in the sweater. There is a multitude of various stitches and they all measure differently. Be sure to make the sample out of the stitch to be used.
- The sample square must be made large enough to get an accurate measure. This is very important with all yarns but it is most significant when working with novelty yarns and especially yarns with large nubs or thick and thin parts. We recommend a square at least 3 to 4 inches by 3 to 4 inches.
To measure a stitch gauge lay the sample on the table. Be sure to lay it flat without stretching it. Lay across it a ruler or tape measure defining precisely a 3 inch length. Count the number of stitches included within this 3 inch area. Then divide the number of stitches by the number of inches (3). The resulting number is the stitch gauge. It can be a whole number or it can have a decimal. This is the number we will use as a stitch gauge to chart the sweater.
The row gauge is measured precisely in the same manner, but this time you count the number of rows in the 3 inches instead of the number of stitches. Again, the number of rows is divided by the number of inches (3). The resulting number is the row gauge used to chart the sweater.
To work on a sample square of less than 3 to 4 inches is extremely risky. You will have great difficulty obtaining an accurate gauge. Understand that the few minutes spent on the sample square represent the single most valuable effort to assure a proper fit. It is really a small price to pay. If you wish the sweater to fit, knit the sample square.
Both the row gauge and the stitch gauge can be rounded off to a number and a single decimal. For example, 3.666 can be rounded off to 3.7, but 3.7 must not be rounded off to 4.